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Mise en abyme – literally "placed into abyss”– is a gimmick we used for a commercial collaboration with the swimwear brand Vilebrequin a couple of years ago. The swimming trunks are placed within the trunk itself, and you can imagine yet another trunk inside that one and so on and so on, in an infinite loop down in the abyss.

“A formal technique in Western art of placing a small copy of an image inside a larger one.”

Mise en abyme [miz ɑ̃n‿abim]1

1. The double-mirroring effect created by placing an image within an image and so on, repeating infinitely (infinite regression): for example, the album cover of Pink Floyd’s Ummagumma (1969). This is also known as Droste effect.
2. A reflexive strategy where the content of a medium is the medium itself: for example, Shakespeare’s Hamlet features a play within a play and Fellini’s 8½ (1963) is a film within a film.
3. A formal technique in Western art of placing a small copy of an image inside a larger one.

When the swimwear brand Vilebrequin contacted me for a commercial shoot back in 2014 I accepted the challenge to take a photograph that would be printed on the fabric of their trunks. We came up with the idea of mise en abyme, to make everything more fun: looking carefully at the image one can see some of the people wearing those very trunks, which we added in post-production.
I had never done a collaboration like this before. When I started some friends and other photographers told me I should not do it, but I think it’s a nice idea that takes a lot of seriousness away from the work.

“In the shots taken for Vilebrequin, the people in the set are wearing white trunks, and in post-production the very image that I shot was included”

Below is a conversation with Noemi Pittaluga2 where we discuss my approach to this assignment.

Noemi Pittaluga: […] in two of the projects created for Vilebrequin (on the slopes of La Flaine and in Villa Noailles) you used the narrative effect of mise en abyme. Was it you who decided to adopt this kind of narrative or did you agree on the staging with the clients?
Massimo Vitali: Having to make a fabric that was used for the creation of swimming trunks, it is necessary to think of a different way of conceiving the image. The mise en abyme comes from the fact that I make an image that is printed on the fabric of which the trunks are made. It is not an advertising image for Vilebrequin, and unlike my other photographs (that normally have no post-production whatsoever, except on the colors) theses are heavily postproduced. They are staged, “fake”, in fact we are talking about something different from my usual way of working. It is not correct to relate these pictures to the ones I usually take. In the shots taken for Vilebrequin, the people in the set are wearing white trunks, and in post-production the very image that I shot was included. […] Certainly here my aesthetic emerges, but we should underline that these images were conceived as another product, they are photographs absolutely separated from the rest of my work because they are the result of a commercial operation. […] When someone commissions you for a commercial assignment doesn’t want a bare-bones commercial operation, but instead aims to get a product that is inspired by your aesthetics, and so we have to compromise some of the normal work with this aspect.

Watch the backstage video of the winter shooting at la Flaine here.

1. “Mise en abyme” definition, Oxford Reference.

2. Noemi Pittaluga,”Photography for me is everything” in Massimo Vitali. Una storia italiana, Ledizioni, 2021.

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